Enzymes, or biological catalysts, are widely used in cosmetics for gentle exfoliation and skin renewal. However, their effectiveness depends heavily on the conditions in which they are used. Let’s explore why water alone may not always be the ideal activator for enzymes.

1. Denaturation

Enzymes are proteins, and they are susceptible to denaturation — a process where their native structure is disrupted by external factors. Water can alter the tertiary and quaternary structures of enzymes, leading to the breakdown of their active sites and loss of catalytic activity.

2. Hydrolysis

Prolonged exposure to water can cause enzymes to undergo hydrolysis, breaking down their molecular structure. This is especially relevant for powdered enzymes, which can begin to decompose into amino acids once dissolved in water.

3. pH Changes

The quality of water plays a significant role in enzyme performance. If the water’s pH is outside the enzyme’s optimal range (usually 7–8), it can disrupt the enzyme’s active site. 

4. Temperature Sensitivity

Enzymes are only active within a specific temperature range (typically around 37°C). Water that is too hot or too cold can either denature the enzymes or slow down their activity to the point of inactivation. For example:

–   Papain works best at approximately 65°C.

–   Bromelain is most effective at 37°C.

Using water outside these ranges can either diminish their efficacy or destroy the enzymes entirely.

5. Premature Activation

When enzymes come into contact with water, they are immediately activated. If not applied promptly after mixing, their activity may decrease or cease altogether before they reach their intended target.

How to Use Enzyme Powders Effectively

Enzyme powders can be mixed with water-based serums that do not contain active exfoliating ingredients like acids. This ensures that enzymes work gently without interference from harsh components. However, if you want to enhance exfoliation, combining enzymes with AHA acids can provide a dual-action peeling effect.

Suitable Serums to Pair with Enzymes:

• Hyaluronic Acid Serums: These boost skin hydration and do not interfere with enzyme activity.
• Soothing Serums: Products containing ingredients like Centella Asiatica or probiotics help restore the skin barrier without causing irritation.

Recommendations from Magiray

MicroPeel Powder is an enzymatic peel based on active enzymes: papain, bromelain and protease. The peel is combined with powdered plant extracts, such as green tea that soothes and ginger and strengthens metabolism. Here are some options with MicroPeel as a recommended activation:

1. Choose an enzyme activator based on your skin type and condition – for example, for porous skin that requires disinfection and tightening, a Refining toner with AHA acids in a reduced concentration will be suitable.

2. Lactic acid can soften and moderate the enzyme activity for a more gentle effect, for example, a TCC product is recommended for combination with MicroPeel Powder when particularly delicate skin needs to be softened.

3. To strengthen the enzyme’s performance, combine the powder with stronger acids, such as Alpha Serum or Glycocare Cream.